here the link to the pics
In December, I got the chance to assist the TIFR and NCBS conducting the general entrance exam at the
Benares Hindu University (BHU) in Varanasi. This gave me the nice opportunity to explore a city in Uttar Pradesh, a part in the central north of India which was totally new to me.
Varanasi is a very important city for Hindus and Budhists. It is located at the Ganges and one of THE sites to cremate dead bodies and hand over the ashes to this holy river. Temples of all kind of important gods are found in the busy city. For the Buddhists, it is important because here, Buddha held his first sermon in Sarnath to five vedic monks (about 520 BC).
In addition to that, Varanasi (or Benares) was always also an important place for teaching, because if which it is of little surprise to find in BHU the first and oldest central University (financed by the Central government). The University campus lies within the city and is huge and spacious. The buildings are mainly constructed in the style of an old castle. The walls are colored in earthy red and ochre, the colonnades and windows are rich decorated and the ceilings are very high (about 5m). The buildings, sport fields and hostels are arranged in semi circles around the central building of the University dean.
Each year, TIFR Mumbai and NCBS are conducting a general exams in Physics, Mathematics, Chemistry, Biology, Computer Sciences and Wild Life Sciences for students who wish to join the PhD programs of one of these institutes. The exam is held in different centres all over the country and about 26000 aspirants take part in it (of which about 100 finally get a PhD position). For the test at BHU, about 800 candidates participated in the test. Two professors from TIFR Mumbai and me were the coordinators to conduct it on a Sunday together with the help of professors from the BHU Physics, Geology and Mathematics department. All went well, which gives me time to talk now about the activities before and after the exam.
I arrived on Saturday noon in Varanasi after a flight of over 5 hours with a stop over in Delhi. I had two heavy boxes with the question and answer sheets to transport to BHU, so I was happy about the car that was waiting for me to drive me to BHU. Friends told me to expect bad roads, but what I experienced during this first encounter with Uttar Pradesh roads was still a harsh contrast to Bangalore roads (which are not that well neither!). The distance of about 20 km took us about 90 minutes and I felt exhausted after this trip. Fortunately, the guest house was a rather positive surprise and I enjoyed the rotis and mixed vegetables for lunch. Shortly after, I met the other two professors from Mumbai who turned out to be two very likable old fellows. We had a good understanding right from the beginning which made the rest of the stay very pleasant.
After a meeting with the local professors to prepare the exam we took a car and drove to the Ganges river. There, we mounted a little boat which took us down the river to see a Ganges pooja (Hindu ritual). It was a great boat ride in the dark night. We saw several beautiful buildings facing the river which were constructed by different royal families who wanted to spent their end of the life directly at the holy river. We alo passed by a big pyre which might have been used for cremation. At the destination, our senses were filled with lights and sound overwhelming us from the river bank. There was a large place (maidan) which was filled with people, many in yellow, who observed the pooja.
Directly at the river, at two sides was a row of five monks (one group in orange, one in white) who conducted the pooja. all of them moved in a synchronized manner and waived in (ascending fire order) smoke sticks, a smoking pot, a single candle, a stand of many small flames, a bowl with a big flame. This choreography was accompanied by ringing bells which they shook with their left hand together with a row of bells above them which was agitated via threads connected to their right hand. It was impressive to see and many people in other boats around us lightened up candles in little cups and put them into the Ganges to flow down the river. After a good while at this ceremony, we rode back to our guest house to have dinner, and I had a nice walk on this cold night in the campus.
The next day, we had finished our duties at about 6 pm and thus had enough time to explore another part of this holy city. My colleagues decided to dedicate the evening to temples, so the driver took us to four of them. We started with a Hanuman temple (the monkey god). It was a dark place with walls smeared with a thick orange paste and people reading verses of Hanuman's great actions. After this, we went to a Durga temple (the goddess so much loved by the Bengal people). When we entered the complex in dark red, our ears were filled with bell rings. Everywhere were small, medium and large bells which were rang by visitors. And to support this, little machines were installed which played drums in a particular rhythm. A crowd was in front of the main shrine to give tribute to Durga, and suddenly, the bells stopped ringing and people started to chant. A very intense experience.
The next temple was luckily more quiet and less crowded. It was dedicated to Rama, and relatively new. The building was large and fully made of white and light grey marble. the walls were decorated with parts of the Ramamayan, the epic story of Rama, in text and pictures. In harsh contrast to the
previous places, this temple was quiet, clean and peaceful.
On the way back, we had our last stop at a temple which was located inside the BHU campus. This was a Vishnu temple and probably the largest of all the places we have visited. It had a very tall dome which was visible from far away. Vishnu's colors are also on the bright side with white and heaven blue. The place was quiet, but this was most probably due to the late time just half an hour before closing time. Inside, we got blessed by a crazy looking priest who gave us a white dot with his thump on our forehead and decorated us with flower necklaces. We saw also nice sculptures of the different forms of Vishnu (the five headed, the dancer) as well as a Hanuman sculpture. Then it was enough and we went back for dinner.
Monday was the last day of my visit and we decided to visit the place of Budha's first sermon before dropping me at the airport. We left in the morning with our dirver to have some Jelebi (a deep fried sugar sweet) in town for breakfast and continued then to Sarnath, which lies 10 km outside Varanasi.
The drive was again very long due to the narrow, bad streets and the high amount of folks using them (walking, by bicycle, bicycle riksha, horse cart or car). But the drive was worth the effort, because to see the holy place for Buddhists was a nice addition to the experiences of Hindu temples of the
previous night. We first visited a temple constructed in the 1930's by a Sri Lankan Buddhist community with a statue showing Buddha preaching to the Vedic monks.The inside walls of the temple were painted by a Japanese couple with scenes of Buddha's life.
The Japanese government also constructed a temple close by with two statues if Buddha, one showing the actual one, and one showing the future Buddha who is believed to come back to earth at some point. We got closer to the interesting part, which was a huge structure made of carved stones and brick stones. This monument is called Stupa and is a fully closed dome which was erected by Ashok around 300 AC to cover the site where Buddha sat and preached to the monks.
Close to that, he also constructed a large temple and a pillar crowned with four lion heads (now the sign of the Indian government), but all this was unfortunately only to see in ruins, because it was destroyed after the Moguls conquered these parts of India. Only the Stupa was reconstructed later mostly using the original stones which were found in the surroundings. The top of the destroyed Ashok pillar, the four lion heads, is now in a museum close by.
Before leaving, we also bought a few souvenirs and had a chai. Then we drove to the airport where I said good by to my two fellows from TIFR Mumbai and boarded the long flight back to Bangalore.
It was a great trip with lots of many new experiences and I am looking forward to more time in northern India in the coming year...